IntoTemptation…..jewellery musings

Thoughts on jewelry, accessories and whatever else takes my fancy

Archive for the category “antique”

Jewel of the day: Silver & Enamel Art Nouveau Silver Pendant with Plique-a-Jour Enamel

Antique plique-a-jour enamel is a rarity because it is so fragile; basically it is melted glass without the structure that backs guilloche or cloisonné enamel. In those pieces, glass is inset into a metal support or backing. The beauty of plique-a-jour is that it is like miniature stained glass.

This pendant shows the effect well. The sterling silver design seems to be of a pine cone, with a ginkgo surround. It is marked but the seller notes that the mark is illegible. This sells for USD$471 on Etsy Shop Ruby and Jules.

Jewel of the day: Gaskin Triangular Corsage Brooch

This is a really lovely example of Arts and Crafts paste jewellery, by husband and wife team Archie and Georgie Gaskin. Offered on 1st Dibs by noted jewellery seller Tadema Gallery, they explain, “This triangular corsage brooch ‘Loves Garland’ by Arthur Gaskin and his wife Georgie is a fine example of their romantic Arts and Crafts jewelry. Signed ‘G’ verso. Original fitted case. Silver, gold, opal, pink tourmaline, blister pearl and emerald paste. Provenance: From the collection of Laurence W. Hodson (1863-1933), thence by descent. To be exhibited at the forthcoming exhibition: “Jewellery. materials craft art” at the National Museum Zurich from 19.05.2017 – 22.10.2017 Exhibited ‘Arthur and Georgie Gaskin’, City Museum and Art Gallery, Birmingham 11 February – 21 March 1982. Item G40 in the exhibition catalogue and illustrated on page 86. The Fine Art Society, London 29 March – 30 April, 1982. Literature: The catalogue entry states this piece was previously exhibited at W.T Whitely ‘The Arts and Crafts’ Society Exhibition at the Grosvenor Gallery in 1912, where it was illustrated in ‘The Studio vol LVII and priced at £12 12s 0d. The original pencil drawing for this piece is in the ‘Drawing Book’ by Arthur and Georgie Gaskin (Victoria and Albert Museum ref: E 6727091969), where all the stones in the piece are labelled, showing that the missing drop was an opal which we have reinstated.”

This is selling for USD$30,243.86

Jewel of the day: Diamond and Ruby Platinum Necklace Tiara

Tiaras were often mounted on frames so that they could be disassembled and worn as a necklace or clips for less formal occasions. This piece is for sale on Etsy by seller My Vintage Diamond Ring. The shop owner notes, “Diamond Tiara/Collar (51carats), Antique- Ruby, natural pearl tiara and collar in Platinum~A piece of history from another era! It looks equally good as a Tiara or Collar. It is in the Art Nouveau style of the day, 1900 to 1910. Perhaps you have an appointment with the Queen and don’t know what to wear? Perhaps you live in Dallas and go to big charity events-this will blow the other women out of their frosted tips! The tiara sports a 4.08ct European Cut J-K color and SI1 to 2 clarity. There are two European cut pear shapes weighing .75ct apiece, 1.50cts as a pair. All together, including the 4.08ct and the 1.50cts pear shapes, the diamond total is a whopping 50.91cts. There are 84 Natural Pearls, see GIA Report. The Tiara weighs 238 grams of Platinum or 8.41 oz. The very front of the Tiara measures 3 1/2 inches, the sides measure 2 1/4 inches. It comes with a gold frame to sit upon which is not pictured. ”

This sells for USD$110,000.

Jewel of the day: Edwardian Paste Pendant

Though I started my collection with costume dress clips, I soon became fascinated by the sterling and paste pieces popular in Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods.Though the stones may be glass (generally) the workmanship is very fine and the look tends to be convincingly of the periods depicted.

This Edwardian pendant is a good case in point. It is sterling silver set with clear crystals and one blue cushion cut stone in the centre, accented with pearls. It sells for USD$155 from Etsy seller br2too.

Jewel of the day: Archibald Knox Liberty & Co Amethyst Gold Necklace

Liberty is one of my favourite UK stores. I love the Arts and Crafts era building, and their unique selection of merchandise.

Archibald Knox was the company’s principal designer and his work is highly collectible today. This piece is offered by noted seller of A+C and Art Nouveau pieces Tadema Gallery. They note, “A lovely Liberty & Co Art Nouveau necklace in gold and amethyst designed by Archibald Knox Documented: cf. Liberty Jewellery sketch book page 216, model number 8167 Archibald Knox, Stephen A. Martin, 2001, page 249. Fitted case.”

This sells for USD$$8,277.55.


Jewel of the day: French Art Nouveau Diamond Opal and Ruby Brooch

Platinum was the favoured metal of the Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods because it lent itself especially well to delicate designs like this one.

This pretty pin is being offered by Etsy seller Best Old Jewelry. They have this to say about it: ‘Platinum on 18k gold, diamonds, opal and rubies. Made in France circa 1890-1910.  Measurements: approx. 2 3/4 inches long; weighs 10.5 grams.  Exquisite Art Nouveau design – long, narrow, waving bands of diamonds, intertwining with whiplash twists and turns. The diamonds are set in platinum. The central section of the brooch represents a flower in bud with calyx and sepals all set in diamonds. The bud itself consists of a beautiful opal – navette in shape with wonderful translucent light, strong blue tones (not adequately reflected in the ‘photos) and good fire. The opal is offset by 5 Colette-set rubies that serve to emphasize, brighten and add to the strong colorful element. Workmanship is of the highest order as is every aspect of this beautiful brooch.  The brooch comes with a period fitted box which might/not be original to the piece. It is marked inside with the name of ARTAULT & DUCLEROIR JOAILLIERS ORFEVRES MOULINS and the monogram B.A on the lid.  The piece is hallmarked both on the side of the brooch and on the pin.  Condition: good with negligible wear commensurate with age.”

This sells for USD$7,250.

Jewel of the day: Faberge Diamond Enamel Gold Pendant

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Faberge piece that was as streamlined as this, with a bloomed gold finish. Etsy seller Romanov explains, “Made by Faberge Moscow branch between 1899 and 1908. The matte gold pendant is designed as a triangular shaped gold plaque with rounded corners (resembles kokoshnik, a traditional Russian head-dress worn by women and girls) with an openwork flying stork caring a diamond. The wings of the stork accented with rose-cut diamonds and a ruby.
The lower border of the plaque is decorated with four appliques engraved with diagonal lines and covered with translucent blue and golden enamel, apparently, to resemble a cloudy sky. The two enameled triangular side drops imitate Old-Slavonic kolts (pendants attached to a female head-dress). 22 old brilliant cut and 4 rose cut diamonds. Estimated total diamond weight 3 carats. Height 2 3/4 in. (7 cm)

The central flexible drop with bezel-set diamonds is flanked by two triangular drops which are covered with aquamarine blue enamel with golden shades. Marked on rim with 56 zolotnik old Russian gold standard (14K) with initials of the Moscow assay master Ivan Lebedkin, and ‘ KФ ‘ in Cyrillic for Carl Faberge. The detachable suspension ring is struck with assay mark and assayer’s initials of Ivan Lebedkin.”

This piece sells for USD$25,000.


Jewel of the day: Bentley & Skinner Edwardian Diamond Tiara

Nothing says aristocracy quite like a tiara. This one is Edwardian, and offered for sale by London-based Bentley & Skinner. They describe it as, “An Edwardian diamond tiara, with foliate swags and floral motifs graduating from the centre, set with old brilliant-cut and rose-cut diamonds estimated to weigh a total of 8 carats, all to a yellow gold mount with detachable frame, (convertible into a necklace or coronet), circa 1900, gross weight 69.68 grams.”

Should you have a glam, tiara appropriate event to attend (though you could just wear it as a necklace), this will set you back£46,500.

Jewel of the day: Sweetie’s Memorable Gemz Antique Emerald and Diamond Bracelet

This lovely antique bracelet on offer from Ruby Lane‘s Sweetie’s Memorable Gemz is evocative of Hungarian and Czech pieces from the turn of the last century.

The seller explains, “The bracelet is not marked 14 Kt. but it has been acid tested by two different jewelers who confirmed it is 14 kt. gold.  Purchased over 50 years ago from a European jeweler that carries exclusively antique, estate and noble jewels. Handmade in the very early 1900’s by a European goldsmith whose skill at creating this hand pierced, not machine pierced, bracelet is evident in the creation of both an oval inner pierced gold layer and domed pierced outside gold layer. It is a work of art and one of a kind.  The bangle bracelet has a pin hinge on side (not spring) and tongue with press down clasp that closes with a loud click, also a safety chain measuring 2-1/2″ long with spring ring that opens if necessary. The bracelet opening is 2-1/4″ wide allowing plenty of room to fit a hand through.  Total weight 42.6 grams.  Inside measurement across from hinge to clasp is 2-1/4″.  Top to bottom inside measurement 1-7/8″ high.  Inside circumference measures approximately 6-1/4″.  Width at center front 18mm with 11mm dome profile.  Tapers down to 9mm wide with a 6mm dome profile at center back.

As a point of reference, my wrist measures 7-1/2″ and the bracelet is approximately 1/2″ too tight. It should fit a small to medium wrist, but not a large size wrist.

There are a total 11 emerald cut emeralds, bezel set deep green with inclusions. They are not the color green of Colombian emeralds, nor are they pale color emeralds. With a magnifying glass I can see three of the emeralds, on the sides have a small chip in the corner. Overall that does not detract from the magnificence of this European handmade bracelet that was worn and greatly enjoyed for over 50 years.

The measurements of the 10 emeralds (5 on each side) are approximately 4mm, the center emerald is approximately 6mm. There are more than 90 round European cut white diamonds bezel and prong set measuring approximately 2mm-3mm with a bright sparkle.

The beauty of this antique bracelet is the highly detailed pierced design with scroll like leaves decorated and highlighted in black enamel.

Gold and gemstone jewelry will not be mailed outside the U.S.”

This sells for USD$2,375.


Jewel of the day: Victorian Keeper Ring

What I find most appealing about this ring, a Victorian version of the promise ring, is the significant wear it bears. It speaks to being worn for a long time by someone who treasured it. Offered by Ruby Lane seller Victoria Sterling, the description notes, ”

The Keeper ring has many legends, amongst them is that it was given as a sort of pre-engagement or betrothal ring a year before an official engagement was made. A sign that the giver thought that the receiver was worth ‘keeping.’ All roads lead to romance in Victorian England and the appeal and mystery of the Keeper ring still abounds today. This Victorian ring is wonderfully sentimental and would serve well as a great wedding band. It could be sized down a bit (or up a bit). It has weathered some in its over one hundred years of wear and is sure to look great after a hundred more. The gold has the soft feel of heavy velvet.

This wonderfully handcrafted Keeper ring is handcrafted in 18 karat gold. It was made in England around 1880-1890, while it was fully hallmarked when it was made, the marks are now too worn to totally make out. It has been acid tested to verify the gold content. The ring is currently a size 8.75 and it could easily be resized to suit a new wearer. The ring weighs 7.3 grams.”

This sells for USD$1,440.


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